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This is probably one of the most contentious issues with this conversion. To be honest I was a little worried about this part, but after completing this section I’m happy that the strength of the car has not been compromised. It also means that the conversion is not reversible unless you have a spare rear sub-frame.

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Gear mechanism install

Before you install the engine, you need to fit the fuel pressure regulator and install the gear linkage mechanism.

Some sand paper (glass paper, emory paper) will be needed here to rub down the linkage shafts before the rose joints will fit snuggly.

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Before I start this, a word of warning…

DISCLAIMER

If you don’t have access to a suitable garage, tools and you don’t have the experience/competence, please go to the links page and pick out one of the turn-key installs give them a call and get your credit card out.

Start as you mean to go on, take your time and make good any issues you may have before continuing. Prepare well and be safe. Don’t cut corners and make a snagging list for issues. Use Loctite where possible and double check every bolt. Use a torque wrench as prescribed in the service manuals. Mark bolts across the top and over there contact points for visual inspection.

Things will go wrong, so be prepared.

This is only a guide, I accept no responsibility if you injure or kill yourself (or anyone else) whilst doing the work or using the vehicle after the install.

A good job well done will pay dividends with safety, reliability and when you come to sell - so document your progress.

Enjoy the project - its fun and the results are well worth the hard work.

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She rides!! I completed the conversion on Sunday. Its was beautiful sunny day - which is always nice. My first ride was very exciting, nervy and most importantly, extremely satisfying.

So I’m officially in the testing stage. I do have a few teething issues to sort out but these are minor. My speedo is very erratic - works one minute, gone the next - which I’m a little disappointed at, I had it running perfectly on the bench. The temp gauge has also gone the same way. As these both run from the old ECU, its probably a good places to start looking and debugging. Apart from that all seems well. I’m just getting used to the new sounds and smells of my car. The heat wrap has a certain scent to it - which has got right up my nose. The plan is to do at least 300-500 miles, take the undertray (belly pan) off and do a thorough spanner check. I’ve paint-penned across all the major bolts to a day-to-day visual inspection is possible.

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This is not the build guide, just some pics of what I’ve been doing….

I’ve been rather busy over the last few weeks converting my car. I took a week off work which enabled me (with some help) to get the kit fitted and I’ve spent some extra time doing some maintenance work etc.

There has been some real highs, some frustration and a few lows - but she’s in and working. All this will be detailed at a later date in my build guide. But I thought I’d post some pics just to keep the keen followers going.

The last time the Rover K would be running in my S2.

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In addition to the SunSpeed kit you will require extra parts to do the install. I will post the final cost of these once I’ve completed the install.

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Remove the air temperature sensor from the air box on your donor engine.

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Cut the gear selector as shown. A Dremmel is very useful at this stage.

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This job is pretty straight forward with the engine out of the car. You will need a clutch alignment tool, if the clutch is not perfectly aligned then the gear box simply will not go on.

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