Fitting the baffled sump..
I bought this sump from Ian at ClockWiseMotion.co.uk who I met through the Seloc forum. I’d just like to say how useful he has been regarding all aspects of K20, a real expert. He’s given me some sound advise regarding, sumps, oil, clutches etc etc. The item is quite expensive but a lot cheaper than a new engine (£172.73 inc VAT).
This particular sump is a ‘drop-in’ type so no modifications or fettling involved.
First off, hoist the engine up and place it on an engine stand. This will help keep it still while you do the spanner work. Remove all the bolts and then break the seal using a screwdriver. This was a little tricky as you don’t want to damage the engine. The sump has a good bond with the engine block, so a little ‘jiggling’ is required.
A flat Stanley blade can be used to ‘cut’ the rubber sealant from the block and sump sandwich points. Place the blade flat and simple run it along where the engine meets the sump, it comes off pretty easily. Be careful not to cut or score the aluminium, also take care that the sealant does not contaminate the engine.
I used some brake/clutch cleaner to remove any traces of grease around the sandwich points. This will provide a good surface for the new sealant.
Simple insert the baffled sump, it fits really nicely.
Clean the edge of the sump and engine edge once more and allow it to dry. Then apply some sealant as shown below and refit the sump to the engine.
The sealant I used is Permatex Copper. You are advised to use the Honda sealant in the manual. Permatex manufacture the Honda sealant and I am confident that Permatex Copper is suitable in this application (looking at the technical spec). Its also £30 per tube cheaper than the Honda sealant. If it leaks I’ll post my mistake here.
Tighten the bolts in the order shown above in 3 stages. I used Loctite Blue on all bolts.
Done - sump fitted, next job is re-fit the clutch and gearbox.