EliseTypeR.com

So I’ve started. The engine has been in my garage for over two months collecting dust. My DIY kit is on its way from the States so its time to start the ‘PREP’. There is quite a lot to do before the engine goes in, but its pretty straight forward stuff and is well worth doing ahead of time.

First off I thought I’d put some pictures up of the engine as it is before I’ve done any work on it. The engine in question is a 2004 Civic Type-R K20A2 (not K20A3) UK spec model. When I bought the engine I had a good look over it to make sure all the sensors etc were connected and nothing was broken. In the pictures below I’ve circled the sensor positions to provide a point of reference for the prospective purchaser.

Buying the engine.

So, what would you need to buy?

K20A2 or K20 JDM (Japanese Domestic Market) model from a Civic or Integra Type-R. Newer the better and its recommended to that you opt for a 2004 or newer engine. The JDM version comes with a few enhancement, these include:

• 220 BHP JDM ECU
• Wide band oxygen sensors
• 6-Speed gear box with limited slip differential

What should I get with it and how much should I pay?

• The engine (K20A2)
• The 6-speed gear box
• ECU with wiring loom
• The starter wiring loom
• Intermediate drive shaft
• 2 x drive shafts
• The original CAT with oxygen sensors attached (2 of them)
• The air box
• Intermediate shaft heat shield (missing from mine)
• The ECU, also get the original key if possible. In UK spec the ECU is 197 BHP
• Make sure you also strip the donor car for any useful connection, pipes, nuts, bolts etc. For instance there is a fuel line connector that you will need, so strip the lot.

All in it cost me £1950 inc VAT. But prices do vary so shop around. A missing sensor or part can significantly increase the cost of the engine so beware.

Engine preparation and cleaning.

Before installing the engine some preparation is required and in my case a fair amount of cleaning. To get good results I’ve decided to take a few bits off so I can access all areas. I’m not going after the ‘as new’ look here, I just want it clean rather than gleaming.

First off, I decided to remove the ancillary belt, AC compressor and alternator. The belt AC compressor will no doubt find its way onto eBay. The alternator is sat of the bench awaiting further attention (cleaning) and the belt is discarded. As you can see in the picture, my engine came with the belt idler assembly, if yours hasn’t then you’ll need to order the following parts from your local Honda dealer:

I also removed the engine mount, this will not be discarded and you will need it for mounting in the Elise.

The plenum chamber supports and starter motor can be removed to provide access to the induction side of the engine. The engine wiring looms can also been removed for cleaning.

Once removed the starter motor can be overhauled. As you can see from the picture the thermostat housing is broken, this will be replaced with a new one (£30.07 inc VAT).

I now have a clean engine casing and my attention turns to removing the gearbox to check the clutch for wear. I also need to fit a baffled sump and with the gear box removed I have an opportunity to mount the engine on a stand for easy rotation and inspection.

The later engines come with a lighter fly wheel denoted by the drilled holes around the edge. This is advantageous as the Elise is lighter than the Civic - a lighter fly wheel will enhance the gear change on a faster accelerating car i.e. it gives the engine a greater chance of retarding the revs in between gear changes.

With the gearbox removed and cleaned, I wanted to check the clutch wear. A new clutch will measure 8.6mm in thickness. Mine is currently at 7.5mm so I’m happy to use it.

Like a new pin.

I wouldn’t want to eat my dinner off it, but its a damn sight cleaner that before. And the red top has come up lovely - I’m feeling quite chuffed at this stage. I still need to clean the wiring loom and refit.

Next, Fitting the baffled sump..