Removing the Rover K series…
Before I start this, a word of warning…
DISCLAIMER
If you don’t have access to a suitable garage, tools and you don’t have the experience/competence, please go to the links page and pick out one of the turn-key installs give them a call and get your credit card out.
Start as you mean to go on, take your time and make good any issues you may have before continuing. Prepare well and be safe. Don’t cut corners and make a snagging list for issues. Use Loctite where possible and double check every bolt. Use a torque wrench as prescribed in the service manuals. Mark bolts across the top and over there contact points for visual inspection.
Things will go wrong, so be prepared.
This is only a guide, I accept no responsibility if you injure or kill yourself (or anyone else) whilst doing the work or using the vehicle after the install.
A good job well done will pay dividends with safety, reliability and when you come to sell - so document your progress.
Enjoy the project - its fun and the results are well worth the hard work.
REQUIREMENTS
The original S2 Manual - see ebay.
The EP3 Type-R Manual - see ebay.
An ELM327 ODBII USB to PC adapter with software - see ebay.
Good quality tools, including metric and imperial spanners and allen keys.
Decent pliers, cutters and a pipe wrench.
An angle grinder with cutting discs.
Some metal working gear, to fashion brackets with.
Screw drivers etc etc - basically a good selection.
See non-kit parts.
First job was to take a picture of my K running, for resale purposes more than any other reason. Not that I’m going to sell any time soon. Never say ‘never’ though.
De-pressurise the fuel system as per the Lotus manual then disconnect and remove the battery.
Next, undo both drive shaft nuts before jacking the car up. My brother took great joy in getting out his biggest ‘breaker-bar’ for this job.
Remove the chassis under trays, exhaust grill trim etc etc. Jack the car up and place on four axle-stands, check out the S2 manual for the jacking and axle stand points. Remove wheels and rear wheel arch trim.
Remove the passenger seat and bulkhead trim. Remove all the clam bolts from inside the car and rear wheel arch. Remove boot (trunk) lid. Take out the boot (trunk) trim and heat shield. Take the clam off (2 people needed).
Your car should now look like this. Make a note and mark the body shims.
Remove the handbrake cable, disconnect the brake line at the chassis. Remove brake pads, caliper and discs (rotors). Dismantle the suspension and separate the hub carrier from the drive shaft. Pop out the inboard drive shafts using a v.large screwdriver, see S2 manual. Put an oil tray under the car as the gearbox oil will drain once the shafts are removed.
Disconnect and remove the exhaust system (Thanks to Derek there, well I wouldn’t want to get under the car 
).
Six bolts hold the sub-frame. Remove the two bolts which connect the rollover bar to the longerons. Remove the four vertical bolts which sandwich an anti-corrosion plates between the aluminum chassis and the longerons. Remove the sub-frame, two people required.
OK - your car will now look very much ‘in-bits’.
Disconnect the fuel line, coolant hoses, wiring loom and clutch line.
Using your workshop crane, support the engine with 2 x 130Kg straps and then proceed to undo the engine mount bolts. See Lotus manual. Lift the engine out. Remove pipe work as shown below.
Ok - time to stand back and look at what you’ve done. I must admit I felt a little apprehensive at this stage as its the point of no return.
Next, install the Honda K20.